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The Black Tusk - Standard Chimney Route

Summary: From Taylor Meadows campground, follow main trail upwards till you get to turnoff. Then follow beaten path up the scree to the base of the final tusk. As you go around to the left (clockwise), you'll come to the base of the chimney.

Detail: Black Tusk is a classic climb, and on any given weekend in the summer there will be 10 or 15 parties that climb the Tusk. The only actual climbing is a short class 3 chimney, with very good handholds and footholds. (The handholds are marked). It looks very steep from the bottom, and many parties will first of all continue a bit farther around looking for an easier way, just to verify that it is the correct route. As this route is often busy, and the rock is fractured into softball sized chucks, be very careful about climbers below you. The potential for rockfall injuries is high. Once on top of the chimney, the rest of the climb is mostly a walk over a moderately slopes to the "main" summit. The main summit is not quite the highest point, the actual highest point is an evil little class 5 spire just to the north, which is almost never climbed.

Reach Black Tusk Meadows (GR965335) by following signs along the Garibaldi Lake Trail and Helm Creek Trail.

On the way up through the meadows from Taylor Creek or Garibaldi Lake, (about 500 m northeast of an outhouse) the trail forks. Take the left fork, the Black Tusk Trail, which traverses up the south side of the mountain. The trail then continues up the southeast ridge to the base of the tusk. Traverse left a few hundred meters to the southwest side of the tusk, and look for the prominent chimney.

Alternatively, strike off overland from the top of the microwave tower road and aim for the southwest corner of the tusk.